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 The Dutch settlers who founded the Cape Colony in the 1700s brought their Muslim servants and cooks with them from Java in Indonesia – then a Dutch Colony. Today the descendants of these Javanese are known as the Cape Malay and they’ve settled on the slopes of Signal Hill in Cape Town in an area known as the Bo-Kaap (Upper Cape). Many of the women are employed in the hospitality trade where family recipes are introduced to a greater audience of international diners.
Typical Cape Malay fare features:
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Old Cape Denningvleis. This is a hearty meat stew flavoured with bay leaves and tamarind or lemon juice. The word ‘denning’ originated from the Javanese ‘dendeng’ – the meat of the water buffalo. Nowadays however, cooks use mutton. -
Yellow rice redolent of cinnamon sticks, turmeric and crushed cardamom pods. Served with their rich curries, yellow rice is further enhanced with plump raisins and fried almond shavings. -
Waterblommetjie (water flower) bredie. This stew is a seasonal treat served when the plant that yields the waterblommetjies flourishes on local dams. Combined with the tart taste of sorrel and the full-bodied flavour of mutton, it strikes a perfect balance of salt, savoury and slightly sour tastes. -
Dried fruit and venison stews. It is a popular custom in the Cape to combine dried fruit with meat – venison like Springbok or ostrich in particular. Slightly sweet, somewhat tangy and acidic, the fruit complements and mellows the taste of the venison.
• Cape Malay curries are full of flavour but are milder and sweeter than their Indian cousins. They eloquently showcase regional produce such as abalone, crayfish and even snoek – a much-loved ocean-dwelling fish.
• Frikkadels, which are rissoles of minced meat heavily spiced with nutmeg, masala, mint and parsley and baked in the oven till brown and juicy.
• Fish bobotie. Flaked fish is turned into a fish pie rich with the flavours of Indonesia, like nutmeg, turmeric and bay leaves. It is served topped with an egg custard and accompanied by a traditional chutney (fruit cooked in vinegar and brown sugar till a jam-like consistency is reached).
• Pumpkin fritters. Mashed pumpkin mixed with egg and a bit of flour is lightly browned before enjoying a dusting of cinnamon sugar and a touch of nutmeg. Delicious with duck, venison or any sweet-and-sour dish.
• Masala chips. These are flavoured with turmeric and a spice mix called masala before being deep-fried and served with any number of fish dishes.
• Honey and cinnamon pumpkin. Half-moon slices of pumpkin – skin and all – are drizzled with honey, butter and brown sugar before baking in a hot oven till the ingredients caramelise to form a sticky, sweet syrup that glazes the pumpkin perfectly.
• Mosbolletjies. A ring of scones fashioned from sweet bread dough, these are a tea-time treat flavoured with orange and lemon peel and served with cheese and coffee.
• Mosbrood or grape bread is a summer-time treat, made when grapes are in season. Fresh grapes are pulped and left overnight to ferment, after which they’re mixed with traditional bread ingredients plus some aniseed. The resultant sweet bread is topped with home-made jam and served with strong coffee.
• Malay koeksisters, which are different to Afrikaner ones, yet go by the same name. Flavoured with ginger, cinnamon and cardamom, they are oblong yeast balls cooked in a citrus-flavoured syrup and sprinkled with dessicated coconut – traditionally served on Sunday mornings.
Notable Cape Malay Restaurants:
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Biesmiellah Traditional Malay restaurant in the Bo-Kaap is an intimate space offering the real deal. Try the denningvleis – a real favourite. No alcohol is served here. -
Moerdijks in Arcadia, Pretoria offers the best of South African contemporary cuisine. Several dining areas and a great wine list add to the authentic homegrown feel. - Gramadoelas in The Market Theatre Precinct in Newtown is a must. African cuisine with a Malay twist, this place is a Johannesburg institution and a must for all first-time visitors to the city.
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