Taking in the evocative towns of Dullstroom, Lydenburg, Machadodorp and Waterval Boven, the Highlands Meander is for those who love big skies, rolling mountains and cool, crisp air. It’s where you go if you want to breathe deeply and really stretch your legs outdoors.
Dullstroom – High Altitude Hangout
In the southern Steenkampsberg, Dullstroom is in an idyllic setting often surrounded by cool swirling mist. It’s one of the highest towns in South Africa and boasts an internationally acclaimed high-altitude fitness centre used by athletes in training from around the world. For Johannesburg city dwellers, Dullstroom is also a favoured getaway spot with excellent restaurants and a touch of good shopping too.
But it’s the hikers and walkers, mountain bikers and fly-fishermen who really love the place; for it has wide horizons and well stocked dams and rivers where rainbow trout flourish. Even if you don’t fly-fish, trout is on the menu at all the local restaurants. It’s served in pancakes and pies, or grilled whole, and makes a delectable meal.
Lydenburg – Heading East
The scenic R540 mountain road from Dullstroom crosses the Dorps River and follows the Kwena Basin all the way to the farming town of Lydenburg. The little town is well known for both fly-fishing and mampoer (the potent South African moonshine), but few people have seen the unusual Lydenburg Heads in the local museum.
The seven heads – six human and one animal – are believed to be from early Iron Age settlers (490AD) and were used for ceremonial purposes, but mystery still surrounds their origin. Some believe the heads are of Indian descent, others claim they appear Aboriginal or even Mayan, but nobody knows for sure.
Long Tom Pass – Beer and Canons
After Lydenburg the R37 takes you winding down the Long Tom Pass not far from the town. Here the scenic beauty of Mpumalanga unfolds before you, and the view from 2 200m high is breathtaking. It’s rolling hills, forests, waterfalls and wide open skies from horizon to horizon.
Long Tom is the name of the canon used when the British and Boers were at war, and the sturdy old canon can still be seen along the road on the pass. Quite quirky is an organic beer brewery near the top of Long Tom Pass. It’s situated here because of the extremely pure water found on the pass, which is used in the distillation process. Visitors can break for beer and taste original potions with a South African touch - one with naartjie and coriander added. Fittingly, Jan de Beer is the brew master.
Heading on along the road would take you to the Lowveld and the iconic town of Sabie. A short ride back to Lydenburg gives the option of taking the R36 road down to Machadodorp and Waterval Boven, also on the Highlands Meander.
Machadodorp and Waterval Boven – Peaceful Little Villages
Travelling through the mountains and past the scenic Kwena Dam, the drive to Machadodorp is both picturesque and peaceful. Bambi farm en route offers some of the finest paragliding opportunities in the area too.
A left turn onto the N4 highway takes you to Waterval Boven; a quaint little railway village famed for its rock climbing and fly fishing. Alternatively, a right turn onto the highway leads to Machadodorp, with its elegant steepled church in the middle of town.
Fly-fishing Haven
With such easy access from the N4, Machadodorp and Waterval Boven are the most accessible fly-fishing spots along the Highlands Meander. There are dams aplenty, and on weekends the area belongs to the fishermen and hikers, though complete relaxation is also a good option in this high altitude haven of tranquillity.
Whether you drive the whole route, which is possible in a full day, or choose to stay along the way, the Highlands Meander is an easy drive and a scenically splendid route to enjoy. Pack a fly rod and a picnic, walking shoes and a good book and head for the Highlands of Mpumalanga.
The Route
Take the N4 highway from Johannesburg through Witbank and Middelburg. After the Middelburg Plaza tollgate, turn left onto the R540 to Belfast, Dullstroom and Lydenburg. Double back and head to Machadodorp or Waterval Boven along the R36 and N4.
Dullstroom is 250km from Johannesburg and takes about 2,5 hours to drive. Dullstroom to Lydenburg is 60km and Lydenburg to Machadodorp is 80km.
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