Florida Road, a villagy street of more than 30 restaurants, bombards the senses with the foods of just about every culture that has set foot in this port city. If you could reduce Durban’s restaurant scene like a well concentrated stock, Florida Road would be the result – a delicious complexity of flavours and experiences with extra spice. This is Durban on a plate – no, let’s rather say it’s on a very big table!
Mmm, delicious
Here you’ll find long standing institutions such as Christina Martin’s highly respected cooking 
academy and the eccentric Bean Bag Bohemia, and everything in between. There’s classic Italian at Marco’s, Spiga d’Oro and Papa Giovanni’s; seafood at A Gruta; Asian fusion at Mo’s Noodles and Baanthai; and a well aged steak at Butcher Boys. And it doesn’t end there.
But don’t blink, because this is an ever changing landscape of trendy eateries, cafes and bars. Yes, the stalwarts have their regular clientele built up over the years and are here to stay. However, the taste buds of Durban’s young suburban set are fickle and quickly hunger for something new. Restaurant names, themes and colour schemes change regularly and what was the French Bistro last week could today be American diner.
Eat Beat
Perhaps South Africa is still unearthing its true food culture and this is as much about discovery as it is about marketing.
Only in the last 15 years or so has the pavement café society truly established itself. Before that, strict liquor licence legislation kept patrons off the pavement. Once those were relaxed, it was not long before restaurants spilled out into the subtropical sunshine.
Café society hits the streets
Florida Road rose to the challenge like a perfect soufflé. Built in 1890 and home two year’s later to South Africa’s first municipal horse-drawn tram, it began as a residential area. However, over the last ten years a mixture of small businesses squeezed into many of the Victorian houses. A sensible town planning strategy ensured some fine examples of architecture were preserved.
Today you have many choices of where to watch the sunset through your tequila sunrise. Perch on a barstool at Goo Chi’s to the buzz of the Argyle Road intersection. Find sanctuary in Quarters elegant courtyard. Or slow the pace with a view of Mitchell Park from a wicker chair at Grill Room Café.
A feast for the eyes
There’s always plenty to see and buy to build up an appetite. So take a hike. Starting from the botanically manicured Mitchell Park, with its aptly named Blue Zoo (great value al fresco breakfasts on weekends), you can study architecture, ogle jewellery, redecorate your apartment, refresh with a healthy smoothie, discover some old books or be a slave to fashion. You may even be inspired by a photographic model stepping out from one of the many model agencies.
Florida Road’s dress code ranges from smart casual to trendy to outrageous – especially at 4am. Durban’s outdoors climate shows as tanned skin proudly parades between strappy sandals, strapless tops and breathtaking skirts.
This is where the creative energy of this subtropical city assaults the senses. Like the eclectic décor of Society, a stylish restaurant that took up home in a national monument – the homestead of Australian Jack Hollis who built the City Hall. The dense jungle of his day now finds itself inside as organic designer motifs that embellish walls. Or drop into The Space created by world class designer team Greg Dry and Roche Smith.
Places to Sleep
If you need a second day (and somewhere to recover from the first) check into Quarters or Benjamins, boutique hotels that hug to classic hospitality as stylishly as any pair of jeans that saunter sexily by.
Don’t waste too much time resting though. Florida Road lights up after dark and doesn’t get much sleep before the sun rises over the Indian Ocean. The mood is always festive as cocktails, beer and wine flows. Just follow the music to find a bar or a club that’s your style. If you’re not sure, a visit to Roman Lounge may get you thinking about painting the town pink.
Too much for one day? Start all over tomorrow to the heady aromas of freshly ground Arabica coffee from Europa that mingle with those of the Brazilian across the street.
You may not get to try everything, but you certainly won’t leave hungry!
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