The fantastical setting of the Tsitsikamma National Park has lead local people to believe that mermaids live there – along with otters, dolphins and whales. While the mermaid theory may be questionable, the magical environment of Tsitsikamma is quite real and there for all to enjoy.
Tsitsikamma is a long narrow park which follows the Eastern Cape coast for 75km from the Groot Brak River to Nature’s Valley. Protecting indigenous coastal forest and the pristine marine environment offshore, it traverses seven rivers, including the mighty Bloukrans and Storms rivers.
Water World
Proclaimed in 1964, the Tsitsikamma, with its jagged rocky coastline pounded by the Indian Ocean, was the first marine national park in Africa. Today it provides visitors with plenty of unusual activities from gently sailing between the sheer rock walls of the Storms River on The Spirit of Tsitsikamma to scuba diving along a unique underwater trail where divers can marvel at a myriad reef fish.
Water is everywhere in Tsitsikamma, which means ‘place of clear water’ in the ancient Khoi language. A Khoi midden can still be visited in the park, just a short walk along a boardwalk through the forest. Nearby is a Khoisan Village where crafts are for sale and Khoisan culture can be experienced. The Oudebosch Farm Stall in the vicinity is also recommended for crafts and home-made delectables.
Trails to try
Most famous is the Otter Trail from Storms River Rest Camp to Nature’s Valley. Taking in forest and fynbos with panoramic coastal views, it traverses 42km over five days. The Mouth Trail starts at the park restaurant and winds for a kilometre along a boardwalk, through forest to the mouth of the Storms River. You can also continue across the suspension bridge and up the steep eastern bank to a lookout point high on the cliff top.
The Blue Duiker Trail is 4km long and takes about three hours. It winds inland through the forest and the best time to see the rare blue duiker that live there is early morning or late evening. Named after the endemic and colourful Knysna Lourie, the Lourie Trail is just a kilometre long through the forest and is a good choice for birders.
The Waterfall Trail is the first three kilometres of the Otter Trail, ending at the waterfall. After following the rugged coastline and doing some boulder hopping, the reward is a swim in a clear pool under the 50m high waterfall. Shadowlands nearby does horse trails and the 22km Storms River Cycle Route takes riders through quiet state forest.
In the De Vasselot section of the park is a network of six short nature trails; each under 6km long. And near Witels peak are the Captain Harris and Fourcade trails. Then there is the Dolphin Trail along which your backpack is portered to luxury overnight stops at bed & breakfast establishments offering sumptuous meals.
Cool Forest
With annual rainfall of over 1 200mm, Tsitsikamma protects the last bit of rainforest that once carpeted the whole coastline. Giant Outeniqua yellowwoods, often bedecked with old man’s beard lichens, tower nearly 50 m high and stand alongside ancient stinkwoods, ironwoods, white pear trees and giant tree ferns. Intrepid Tarzan’s and Jane’s can explore this forest canopy on a guided tour along steel cables through the tree tops – landing on treetop decks to admire the views.
On the cool forest floor, dozens of different ferns weave a green lacy carpet, and beneath them mosses provide natural underfelt. To see and buy a variety of ferns, visit Forest Ferns – and enjoy lunch amidst the greenery.
Birds and Beasts
Although the forest is home to scores of birds and animals, most are shy and elusive. Many forest inhabitants, like bush pig, leopard and genet, only come out at night. But the dainty blue duiker and dappled bushbuck graze silently during the day. The true master of disguise, however, is the Knysna dwarf chameleon. It moves so slowly that it has enough time to change colour and perfectly mimic its surroundings.
But the forest really belongs to the birds, which are more easily heard than seen in the lush forest foliage. There are over 220 species of birds in Tsitsikamma, 35 of which are found exclusively in the forest. There are striking red and green Knysna louries, bulbuls, chorister robins, black-headed orioles, double-collared sunbirds, narina trogons, paradise flycatchers, wood owls and, at the top of the pecking order, crowned eagles.
Flowers and Fynbos
Beyond the forest, plant life changes dramatically and instantly to hardy fynbos. Most recognisable are the proteas and ericas, but there is a wash of floral colour sweeping all the way down to the sea shore in a perfectly natural garden.
Tsitsikamma is a breathtakingly beautiful sanctuary. With year-round good weather, this is the ultimate clean green getaway irrespective of whether you come for the otters, dolphins and whales; the forest and fynbos; or simply to enjoy a pristine piece of coastline where mermaids are said to live.
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