Making something wondrous from very little, the residents of Intabazwe Township outside the eastern Free State town of Harrismith have bought into the benefits of tourism in a big way.
The Musician
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| |  Musican James ‘14’ Tshabalala | |
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James ‘14’ Tshabalala emerges from his tiny squatter hut, carrying a fine Spanish guitar and dragging out a portable amplifier. He connects the guitar lead to the soundbox, strums a bit, closes his eyes and wanders into that other world where really good musicians go, from time to time.
Nothing matters now, as he begins to sing an instantly made-up song of welcome, interspersing his words with clicks and whistles, a surprisingly high sound quality emerging from the old amplifier. In that secret minstrel’s place, there is no poverty, no thrashing rain on the exposed body, no sickness nor hardship. Just pure, unadulterated joy at the escape that music brings.
Concert Mode
On the tip of the township hill he stands playing, with the legendary Platberg in background and the town of Harrismith in the middle distance. ‘14’ Tshabalala is in concert mode, and this beautiful part of the Free State is his favourite amphitheatre. His closed eyes and wide, toothy grin say it all. Ragged and poor, this man remains a true artist.
As he plays for us, I see ‘14’ has a faithful camp follower, in the form of his two-year-old neighbour, Nkosikona Msibi, who drops everything and begins a wild dance whenever he hears the first few notes on the Spanish guitar.
Craft Project
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| |  Raolelang craft initiative | |
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Joyce Mthembu, municipal manager for the Phumelele district, wears another cap as a promoter of her home township of Intabazwe.
Joyce also started a crafting initiative called Raohelang (SeSotho for ‘awake’) which employs 38 women. The group is currently being funded by the Department of Arts and Culture, which allows the women to buy their materials and take home a small monthly stipend. Tourists stop off and watch the crafters at work – and then, hopefully, feel inspired to make a few purchases.
Hello Tourist
There is movement everywhere tonight in this township. A group of traditional dancers sets up a performance outside an old trading store, then wait patiently further down the road to show off their special gumboot routine. Smiles and greetings of ‘hello tourist’ float on the evening air, as the people of Intabazwe come out to enjoy the summer breeze.
The various taverns are in full swing now, and the few people with regular work in nearby Harrismith are returning home in taxis and buses. The mobile Vodacom cellphone centre is busy, and it is here that one meets Tulwane Moloi, a local teacher who really wants to be a male model. He’ll show you a container where you can fax a letter, have your CV typed up and enjoy a township braai (barbecue) – in one fell swoop.
At the 702 Kiosk one comes across the owner, John Makhubu, who sells fruit, cigarettes and sweets. Next to him is the Masakhane Car Wash, which does a roaring trade on weekends.
‘Show Me’ Street
The traditional healer’s name is Evelina Skosana, and you should take our shoes off before entering her hut. Accompanied by a trainee-sangoma, she is in the midst of a traditional spiritual dance. At the end of the ritual, she answers questions.
Nearby ‘Show Me’ Street is the stylish thoroughfare of Intabazwe, where folk who have acquired a fancy new car, some smart clothes or simply a pretty girlfriend come to show off to the public at large.
Hot Township Sounds
On ‘Show Me’ Street you could also pass a church choir in full swing, practising for the weekend services as the township relaxes into twilight. Two kids sharing a pair of rollerblades glide like flamingos down a concrete drain. Cows cross at the traffic circle, plovers scold from the school fields.
Light shines out from the open door of the Cahora Bassa Tavern. The loud strains of kwaito – the hottest township sounds ever – flow from the tavern as the take-away customers emerge laden with lager.
The Crockery Fan
Intabazwe Bed & Breakfast hostess, Rosemary Molefe, admits she’s a bit of a crockery fan who couldn’t stop after buying her first trousseau set many years ago.
‘These B&Bs all began with the township tours, and the visitors staying on into the night. They would be tired and in need of accommodation, so we started putting them up.’
In September 2001, when a vicious snow blizzard hit the area, the B&Bs of the township were packed with stranded tourists. The hostelry owners went down to the truck stop and found drivers living in their cabs and made a special effort to feed them as well.
It’s one of the legends of the Big Heart of Intabazwe.
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