A short day tour of Soweto is not enough; so take up the invitation to spend a night in this township that is home to nearly 4 million people. It will ‘awaken your eyes’ to the warmth and welcoming friendliness of the locals.
The Story of Soweto
Soweto became a symbol of oppression during apartheid because of its history, size and struggles.
Matters for black people in southern Africa had been complicated by the overwhelming changes wrought in the last three decades of the 19th century by the discovery of diamonds and gold. Prior to 1870 most South African blacks lived in independent chiefdoms; by 1899 none did.
And as black people were absorbed into industries run by either the British colonialists or the Boer settlers, they lost their freedom, their lands and their ability to support themselves independently. The only options, for most blacks, as they were deprived of their domain, were to starve or offer their labour cheaply to white farmers or white mine owners.
Birth of a Township
Even if these choices were highly unattractive, the opportunities offered in the cities were preferable – particularly in Johannesburg. Here they were enclosed in single-sex hostels and compounds attached to mines and factories or left to fend for themselves in multiracial locations and slums just north of Fordsburg, noted for poor living conditions.
But it was not the health risks so much as different groups ‘living on friendly terms’ that concerned the authorities. An outbreak of bubonic plague in 1904 gave them the excuse to burn down the ‘location’ of Nancefield and remove the 1 358 black residents 13 kilometres from Johannesburg to Klipspruit, which would later become Pimville and eventually Soweto.
By law, no blacks were permitted to live in Johannesburg after the founding of this township, situated in the bowl of the municipal sewage works (cynically chosen because it was the one piece of land that would be of no interest to whites). 
Homey accommodation
Over the next 90 years Soweto became the focal point of the South African struggle for freedom. A time in which it also became the centre of black urban culture. And the best way to experience the vibe is to spend a night or two there.
So why not try one of these fine bed and breakfast establishments:
Neo’s B&B
The award-winning Neo’s B&B is the perfect place for exploring Orlando West's famous Vilakazi Street; the only street in the world to have housed two Nobel Prize laureates, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. Owner Neo Mamashela always welcomes visitors with a big smile and a cup of tea in her kitchen.
Dakalo Bed and Breakfast
Also in Orlando West, Dakalo Bed and Breakfast is a two-minute walk from Mandela’s original house and Tutu’s home. This comfortable establishment is known for its unique ‘township style’ breakfasts where guests get to share their meal with owner Dolly Hlope and her extended family.
Lolo’s Guest House
Another award-winner, Lolo’s is located in posh Diepkloof. This is a good base for exploring the teeming Baragwanath Taxi Rank, where visitors can spend an hour at the adjoining market before moving on to the many nearby heritage sites. And when the day is done you can relax with owner Lolo Mabitsela, a retired teacher, who has a wealth of first-hand knowledge of the 16 June 1976 Soweto Uprising.
Botle’s Guest House
The upmarket Botle’s Guest House, a street away from the renowned Wandie’s Place restaurant in Dube Village, is less than a kilometre from the historic Hector Pieterson Museum and Memorial.
Soweto Homestay
Just behind Tutu’s house in Xorile Street, Soweto Homestay is the first backpacker lodge in a township. Ideal for younger visitors.
Dine Out
There are a number of fine restaurants in Soweto, which are popular with both tourists and locals. Though their menus differ, most include typical township fare such as morogo (wild spinach), dombolo (steamed bread), and umngqusho (samp and beans – Mandela’s favourite dish).
Here are a few for you to try:
Wandie’s Place
Wandie’s Place in Dube is a popular haunt for visiting celebrities. Not to be missed by those who love the flash of a camera.
Nambitha
Nambitha, which means ‘something tasty’, is an elegant tavern that doubles as a gallery for local artists and photographers. The bar offers only the best local and imported beers, wines and spirits, and the fusion African, Indian, European menu is so good that it would feature on any top restaurant list.
Sakhumzi Restaurant
Sakhumzi Restaurant, next-door to Tutu’s house in Vilikazi Street, is cosmopolitan and friendly. At the inside bar are a wide selection of local and imported beers, wines and spirits, but the best place to enjoy them is under the boma just off the street where one can enjoy the spirit of Soweto at its best.
Links: