As a further demonstration of the wide range of natural condi
tions in South Africa, one can indeed go ice climbing. Most sites are in the southern Drakensburg, but there is also some good ice climbing at the Bokong Ice Fall in Lesotho. Between these 2 locations there are enough routes to whet the appetite of any ice climber.
Under the South African Sun
The southern Drakensburg, which offers some of the best ice-water climbing, has a few routes for those keen on ice climbing, ranging in difficulty from a fairly simple walk on a protected route right through to climbs that beginners most certainly should not be trying! Of course, ice climbing is a highly seasonal activity, which limits its availability - prime ice climbing time in the Drakensberg is from late-May until about mid-August.
There are 3 popular routes in the Drakensberg, offering a range of conditions and technical demands. These are:
The most accessible of the three routes and the one most suitable for beginners, with short easy climbs that are protected from the elements. These are recommended if you’re just starting out.
There are practice areas for beginners and 4 to 5 pitch routes, including some of the longest and best ice climbs available in South Africa. A big attraction for serious climbers is the fact that several major ice-falls are still unclimbed. This area is a tough one though, as getting to the climbs takes a few days and demands physical fitness.
This area is more accessible than Giant’s Castle – although conditions could more accurately be described as snow climbing rather than strictly ice climbing. Routes are suitable for both beginners and more experienced climbers.
Ice Falls in Lesotho
Neighbouring Lesotho also boasts some great ice climbing sites in the Bokong area of the central Maluti Mountains and the Oxbow region in the northern Maluti Mountains. There are four major routes of interest to ice and snow climbers here. These are the Lepaqoa Ice Fall, the Siberian Enema, the Moonlight Alien (all in the Bokong area), and the Main Oxbow Ice Fall in the Oxbow region of the northern Maluti mountain range.
Learning to Climb in Ice
Ice climbing itself is not an easy task and is most certainly not recommended for those with no prior rock climbing experience. However, if you are interested in climbing in general, with a view to undertaking major ascents of high peaks, it is a necessary skill to acquire. Peak High Mountaineering in the southern Drakensberg o
ffers courses on all of the Drakensberg routes for those wishing to learn the skills. The ice climbing conditions in the ‘Berg are an ideal training ground for alpine conditions and the courses on offer from Peak High are designed to develop all the skills required.
T he courses run over 2 to 3 days and incorporate skills such as climbing “French style” front-point, the placing of ice protection, ice-axe arrest, snow belaying and danger assessment. The only requirement for attending these courses is that prospective attendees must have prior rock climbing experience.
Up High, Ice Cold
Ice climbing is an unusual sport for South Africa, as local conditions aren’t often conducive to it. However, due to the applications of ice climbing skills in other serious mountain climbing, and in ranges outside of Africa, it is a discipline for which demand is growing in this country. Even for South African conditions you will need some specialised gear in order to be able to ice climb. An instructor or climbing guide will always give you a comprehensive kit list, but be prepared for the need of special ice climbing boots, crampons and specific ice tools including an ice hammer, ice screws and harness equipment.
If you are serious about climbing of any kind, particularly something as specialised as ice climbing, it is recommended that you join up with your local chapter of the Mountain Club of South Africa. They will be able to put you in touch with the best local professionals, give you expert advice and support as well as assist with training and courses to help you get the best out of your climbing and yourself under safe conditions.
Remember, this is ice climbing so its gets pretty cold, especially if you are staying out overnight. Be prepared with lots of warm clothing, a decent tent and a winter sleeping bag!
© Photographs are courtesy and copyright of Gareth Hepburn
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